Aylward Pinot Noir – Wine & Spirits – 92 Points
After the Aylward family sold their Kooyong vineyard and winery in 2004, they set up Ocean Eight. Mike Aylward makes the wines from vineyards his family planted in the cool hills of Upper Shoreham. This is a salty, oceanic pinot, layered with notes of kirsch and kelp over crimson tannins. It starts off delicate, with a gentle texture, then the tannins seem to develop muscle and power with air. Decant it for tea-smoked duck.