Toro is like the 1980s – big shoulder pads, teased hair and a gaudy energy that seems to be chemically enhanced. It’s a DO that, in most regards, is caught in a time warp, much like that mauve and teal bathroom you’ve been meaning to remodel. Having built its reputation on a style of wine that is now decidedly out of fashion, Toro is long overdue for a breath of fresh air – or in the case of Alvar de Dios, fresh wine.
Alvar was born and raised in the village of El Pego near the southern boundary of the DO of Toro. His family had tended vineyards in the village for generations but Alvar didn’t stay in Toro to learn his trade, but rather he fell in with a pair of vinous rebels working in the Sierra de Gredos – Fernando Garcia and Dani Landi. While working as the cellar master for Fernando at Bodegas Marañones he began acquiring vineyards of his own in and around his native DO, splitting his time between the Gredos and Toro.